Collagen preparations in modern dermatology and cosmetology
Kutueva L.I., Roberti A.R., Svechnikova E.V., Ashapkin V.V.
Collagen is the main protein in the skin, providing its strength, firmness, and elasticity. With age and exposure to ultraviolet radiation, collagen synthesis decreases, and degradation accelerates, leading to wrinkles and loss of skin tone. Collagen loss is especially rapid in women during the first years of menopause. Oral collagen hydrolysates are the most studied form of their use in cosmetology. In the gastrointestinal tract, they are digested into short peptides (e.g., Pro-Hyp, Gly-Pro-Hyp), which are absorbed into the bloodstream and reach the skin. These peptides cannot be incorporated into collagen fibers. They act as signaling molecules, stimulating fibroblasts to produce their own collagen, hyaluronic acid, and other components of the collagen matrix. Meta-analyses of numerous clinical trials have shown that collagen hydrolysates lead to a moderate but significant improvement in skin hydration, elasticity, and density. Injectable collagens are more effective in this regard, and also demonstrate a strong protective effect against skin aging. Topical collagens are less popular and have been poorly studied. A particular niche for their use is as wound dressings. Regardless of the method of delivery to the skin, exogenous collagens cannot directly integrate into the collagen fibers of the dermis; their effect is achieved through a regulatory effect on the metabolism of fibroblasts and immune cells. This review focuses on recombinant collagens identical to human collagens. They are produced in bacterial, yeast, plant, insect, and mammalian cells. The most promising biotechnological platforms are yeast (Pichia pastoris), plants (tobacco, corn), and insects (silkworm). Recombinant collagens are characterized by high purity, biocompatibility, no risk of prion infections, and hypoallergenicity. One of the latest advances is the use of recombinant collagens as ideal «bioinks» for 3D bioprinting of living skin models. Collagen preparations have evolved from simple fillers to biological regulators that stimulate the skin’s own regenerative resources. In practice, the greatest effect can be achieved by combining oral hydrolysates of natural collagens and injectable formulas based on recombinant collagens.
For citations: Kutueva L.I., Roberti A.R., Svechnikova E.V., Ashapkin V.V. Collagen preparations in modern dermatology and cosmetology. Pharmateca. 2026;33(5):18-31. (In Russ.). DOI: https://dx.doi.org/10.18565/pharmateca.2026.5.18-31
Authors’ contribution: E.V. Svechnikova, V.V. Ashapkin developed the concept and general outline of the article and performed final editing of the manuscript. L.I. Kutuyeva wrote the sections «Molecular Structure and Spatial Organization of Collagen» and «Collagen Sources». A.R. Roberti wrote the section «Use of Collagen Preparations in Medicine and Cosmetology». V.V. Ashapkin wrote the section «Mechanisms of Action at the Cellular and Molecular Levels». E.V. Svechnikova wrote the sections «Introduction» and «Conclusion and Prospects». All authors approved the final version of the manuscript.
Conflicts of interest: The authors confirm that they have no conflicts of interest to declare.
Funding: The study was conducted without any sponsorship.
Keywords
collagens
skin aging
collagen hydrolysates
recombinant collagens
About the Authors
L.I. Kutuyeva, Belozersky Research Institute of Physico-Chemical Biology, Lomonosov Moscow State University, Moscow, Russia; ORCID:https://orcid.org/0009-0004-0315-0423
A.R. Roberti, Jess Medical Company, Moscow, Russia
Elena V. Svechnikova, Dr. Sci. (Med.), Head of the Department of Dermatovenereology and Cosmetology, Polyclinic No. 1 of the Administrative Directorate of the President of the Russian Federation; Professor, Department of Skin and Venereal Diseases, Russian Biotechnological University (ROSBIOTECH), Moscow, Russia; elene-elene@bk.ru; ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0002-5885-4872
Vasily V. Ashapkin, Dr. Sci. (Biol.), Senior Researcher, Belozersky Research Institute of Physico-Chemical Biology, Lomonosov Moscow State
University, Moscow, Russia; basilashapkin@gmail.com, ashapkin@genebee.msu.ru, ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6641-2137 (corresponding author)
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